Step 1
![[Image: 52688594972_e73f19af02_b.jpg]](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52688594972_e73f19af02_b.jpg)
Note that there are many way of making the wiring connections. There may be better ways to wire the module for your particular application. The schematic is simple. As posted above, the module is only connected by pins 1,2,3,4,5,6,25 and 28. Note that pins 2 and 4 are internally connected.
The module takes up a considerable amount of limited HAT space. Removing all of the pins from the module and soldering parts directly to the module can help. Access to pins 6 and 25 can be limited, because the I/V resistors and output coupling caps connect there. Film caps can take up a large amount of HAT real estate.
Orientation: The orange semicircle on the bottom represents the orientation of the TDA1387 module. Components on this side, solder to the flip side.
Plan the positioning of the RCA jacks and drill any holes before placing any components. See below. RCA jacks should be near the display ribbon end, at the top of the board pictures.
Solder a 470R 1/8W metal film resistor between the holes on the blue line. The body should be close to the module. Use some stripped wire insulation to insulate the exposed wire going to #21, because it crosses over the 3V3 and GND strip.
Solder ground wires between the holes on the green lines. You can also solder the wires on the bottom of the board, which may give you easier access to the pin 6 strip.
Solder the chosen I/V resistors between the holes on the red lines. More info on the choice of I/V resistors to follow. If you are using bulk metal foil resistors with radial leads, lead spacing is 0.15". Note that orientation of the two resistors is opposite with regard to current flow to ground. With naked bulk metal foil, the shiny side with lettering will be facing outward for both resistors.
Right channel audio output: Pin 6
Left channel audio output: Pin 25
Solder IC pin jacks in the holes along the yellow line, six on each side. I get IC sockets with round pins and cut the plastic into strips of six sockets in length. The module has round pins. The full socket is a DIL 28 pin. You may also solder the module directly to the Proto board. I currently think the best method is to remove all of the pins from the module, and then solder the parts directly to the module. In the diagram, there are only two holes available outside of the module for connecting parts. There are two connections at strip 6 and two at 25. This is where the I/V resistors and output coupling capacitors connect. The capacitors are often large, and the leads may not fit the holes, and need to be soldered to the surface of the strips. The extra room is a benefit.
Omit the socket for pin 4 or clip the pin from the module, since it is a duplicate and not used. This circuit layout will not work if pin 4 of the module is connected to the board.
Note that there are many way of making the wiring connections. There may be better ways to wire the module for your particular application. The schematic is simple. As posted above, the module is only connected by pins 1,2,3,4,5,6,25 and 28. Note that pins 2 and 4 are internally connected.
The module takes up a considerable amount of limited HAT space. Removing all of the pins from the module and soldering parts directly to the module can help. Access to pins 6 and 25 can be limited, because the I/V resistors and output coupling caps connect there. Film caps can take up a large amount of HAT real estate.
Orientation: The orange semicircle on the bottom represents the orientation of the TDA1387 module. Components on this side, solder to the flip side.
Plan the positioning of the RCA jacks and drill any holes before placing any components. See below. RCA jacks should be near the display ribbon end, at the top of the board pictures.
Solder a 470R 1/8W metal film resistor between the holes on the blue line. The body should be close to the module. Use some stripped wire insulation to insulate the exposed wire going to #21, because it crosses over the 3V3 and GND strip.
Solder ground wires between the holes on the green lines. You can also solder the wires on the bottom of the board, which may give you easier access to the pin 6 strip.
Solder the chosen I/V resistors between the holes on the red lines. More info on the choice of I/V resistors to follow. If you are using bulk metal foil resistors with radial leads, lead spacing is 0.15". Note that orientation of the two resistors is opposite with regard to current flow to ground. With naked bulk metal foil, the shiny side with lettering will be facing outward for both resistors.
Right channel audio output: Pin 6
Left channel audio output: Pin 25
Solder IC pin jacks in the holes along the yellow line, six on each side. I get IC sockets with round pins and cut the plastic into strips of six sockets in length. The module has round pins. The full socket is a DIL 28 pin. You may also solder the module directly to the Proto board. I currently think the best method is to remove all of the pins from the module, and then solder the parts directly to the module. In the diagram, there are only two holes available outside of the module for connecting parts. There are two connections at strip 6 and two at 25. This is where the I/V resistors and output coupling capacitors connect. The capacitors are often large, and the leads may not fit the holes, and need to be soldered to the surface of the strips. The extra room is a benefit.
Omit the socket for pin 4 or clip the pin from the module, since it is a duplicate and not used. This circuit layout will not work if pin 4 of the module is connected to the board.
