If you have not heard nonoversampling DACs, I would recommend a trial. I think the oversampling filters in most modern delta sigma DACs cause significant problems. You can turn off the OS filters on your PCM5122 by upsampling to 32/384. SoX in Moode can do it, and does a better job than the internal OS filters.
The PCM1794 is well thought of, but only when the internal OS filters are turned off. Turn off internal OS filters, and your DAC will sound much better.
For less than $50 you can get an L1387 USB, which uses the TDA1387 DAC chip, an old Philips multibit DAC chip. This uses USB (or SPDIF) input and has RCA output, and even a built-in headphone amp. It is powered from USB. This will give you a flavor of nonoversampling (NOS).
My current DIY HAT uses a TDA1387 x 8 module (usually used as a plug in replacement for the famous and rare TDA1541). There is minimal parts count with two I/V resistors, three metal film 470R I2S resistors, two 10 uF coupling caps, one audio electrolytic cap, HAT proto board and RCA jacks. Cost can be less than $20. Construction time a few hours. Use the generic drivers in Moode. My build uses premium I/V resistors (naked bulk metal foil $10 each) and expensive, high quality film coupling caps. But, 1/4W AB carbon comp resistors sound excellent. The resistor value is critical. Inexpensive Silmic II sound very good as coupling caps. Recommend an audio quality electrolytic. This is probably the easiest to build DIY DAC. The TDA1387 not only sounds great, but is easy to use. I2S input straight from the RPi GPIO, single 5V supply from the GPIO, bitrates up to 384k.
![[Image: s-l1600.jpg]](https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/t6UAAOSwSLlgNts-/s-l1600.jpg)
TDA1387 x 8 module
The PCM1794 is well thought of, but only when the internal OS filters are turned off. Turn off internal OS filters, and your DAC will sound much better.
For less than $50 you can get an L1387 USB, which uses the TDA1387 DAC chip, an old Philips multibit DAC chip. This uses USB (or SPDIF) input and has RCA output, and even a built-in headphone amp. It is powered from USB. This will give you a flavor of nonoversampling (NOS).
My current DIY HAT uses a TDA1387 x 8 module (usually used as a plug in replacement for the famous and rare TDA1541). There is minimal parts count with two I/V resistors, three metal film 470R I2S resistors, two 10 uF coupling caps, one audio electrolytic cap, HAT proto board and RCA jacks. Cost can be less than $20. Construction time a few hours. Use the generic drivers in Moode. My build uses premium I/V resistors (naked bulk metal foil $10 each) and expensive, high quality film coupling caps. But, 1/4W AB carbon comp resistors sound excellent. The resistor value is critical. Inexpensive Silmic II sound very good as coupling caps. Recommend an audio quality electrolytic. This is probably the easiest to build DIY DAC. The TDA1387 not only sounds great, but is easy to use. I2S input straight from the RPi GPIO, single 5V supply from the GPIO, bitrates up to 384k.
TDA1387 x 8 module
