ProtoDAC TDA1387 X8 project

[hifinet]

Folks,
my Christmas gift arrived - Iancanada PurePi II 5V/3.3V Power Supply PurePi_II

I liked the sound of Moode with ProtoDAC so much that I have pulled my collection of MFSL/DCC/XRCD CDs and ripped them to FLAC to re-discover how wonderful moOde plays them on ProtoDAC. This software and hardware combo is nothing short of magical, thus Christmas money went to possible improvements of better power supply and poorman's reclocker - bought Innomaker DAC HAT to reclock.

I carefully read Ian's manual and there is something that confused me. I wonder if anyone is using Iancanada's PurePi II with ProtoDAC combo.

To use Iancanada power supply but without Iancanada's reclockers, I wonder if I can even use his power supply without cutting pins 2,4 on the stack spacer before connecting any HATs to Raspberry Pi's HAT that is connected to the spring pins of PurePi II?

Iancanada says 1,3 - 5V
ProtoDAC manual says that 2,4 - 5V

I am glad that you are enjoying ProtoDAC and Moode.

"Iancanada says 1,3 - 5V" To add to the confusing Ian Canada manual. There are five spring loaded GPIO contacts numbered 1, 3, 5, 10, 13. These connect to RPi GPIO pins 2, 4, 6, 9, 14 , respectively. 

I have used the PurePi with ProtoDAC. The RPi is designed to be mounted on the PurePi. The pins connect the 5V ultracap supply and ground to the RPi GPIO pins from the bottom. Yes, you can stack the Innomaker/ProtoDAC directly on the RPi. There is no need to use a stacking header in this case. 5VDC with pass through the GPIO to the Innomaker master DAC (reclocker in your case) and ProtoDAC.

The 3V LiFePO4 battery supply is unused in your setup.

The following does not pertain to your setup. Just for additional information.

The 3.3V LiFePO4 battery supply is designed to be used with the FifoPi Q7. The batteries power Q7 via the 3.3V terminal with a jumper wire. The isolated GPIO of Q7 has a nonstandard GPIO with only 3.3V on pins 2 and 4. This cannot be changed with Q7. In that case, there are two options with powering ProtoDAC mounted on the Q7:

1) Option 1: A stacking header with GPIO pins 2 and 4 removed is used. Power ProtoDAC using the GND/5V pads located between the RCA jacks. This is a reversible method, since ProtoDAC could be powered from the GPIO in another setup.

2) Option 2: Remove pins 2 and 4 from the ProtoDAC GPIO before soldering. In that case, ProtoDAC must always be powered from the GND/5V pads between the RCA jacks.

[speedy210]

I swapped from Wima MKP to Jantzen Superior Z-cap today, and the soundstage opens up even more, clarity and definition in the whole area. They are not that expensive either, £45,- for a pair at Hificollective. I also use the AudioNote Kaisei 2200uF on the powerside which also is a cheap upgrade. I'm really amazed by what this design can do - thank you so much!!

Hello Ludomaniac, I would also like to install the Jantzen Superior Z-cap. Do these fit on the board at all? Or how did you install them? Thank you and best regards

[hifinet]

Hi @speedy210 speedy210

I am using the 3.3uF Superior-Z and they fit, but extend off the edges of the HAT due to the large diameter. Dimensions are 30mm x 45mm. Great sounding caps. The best I have tried. 

10uF are  46mm x 70mm (too big). 3.3uF are the largest that will fit. The next highest value of 3.9uF are 30mm x 57mm.

[speedy210]

Hi @speedy210 speedy210

I am using the 3.3uF Superior-Z and they fit, but extend off the edges of the HAT due to the large diameter. Dimensions are 30mm x 45mm. Great sounding caps. The best I have tried. 

10uF are  46mm x 70mm (too big). 3.3uF are the largest that will fit. The next highest value of 3.9uF are 30mm x 57mm.

@hifinet Thank you very much for your answer. The fact that they survive would not bother me at all. I have installed everything in an amplifier housing. Ok, you can bend the pins or wires then. The capacitors are still quite solid. 

Something else, I found these resistors at Digikey. Are these the TX2575? It's difficult to get hold of them.

https://www.digikey.de/de/products/detai...9L/2609886

[hifinet]

I am not familiar with the Vishay part numbers. According to the linked datasheet, the one you linked is the correct type, but the value is too high. Series is VAR(Vishay Audio Resistor?). DigiKey never seems to have the correct values (or any at all) in stock. The value should not be greater than 430R. The value in the kit is 420R. They could probably be as low as 390R, but may need to have the C3/C4 caps increased a bit.

Alternate source of Z-foil is HiFiCollective in UK. They have Charcroft, which are also Vishay Z-foil. 390R 

In the near future, I will be trying some alternatives to the Vishay Z-foil resistors. Mentioned in some recent posts. SMD tantalum resistors, Rhopoint wire wound and Caddock TF020 thick film. The SMD tantalum would be significantly less expensive. They are  stocked in 100R by DigiKey. Vishay PTN, Stackpole RTAN and Yageo NT series.

[smokey_mountain]

Folks,
my Christmas gift arrived - Iancanada PurePi II 5V/3.3V Power Supply PurePi_II

I liked the sound of Moode with ProtoDAC so much that I have pulled my collection of MFSL/DCC/XRCD CDs and ripped them to FLAC to re-discover how wonderful moOde plays them on ProtoDAC. This software and hardware combo is nothing short of magical, thus Christmas money went to possible improvements of better power supply and poorman's reclocker - bought Innomaker DAC HAT to reclock.

I carefully read Ian's manual and there is something that confused me. I wonder if anyone is using Iancanada's PurePi II with ProtoDAC combo.

To use Iancanada power supply but without Iancanada's reclockers, I wonder if I can even use his power supply without cutting pins 2,4 on the stack spacer before connecting any HATs to Raspberry Pi's HAT that is connected to the spring pins of PurePi II?

Iancanada says 1,3 - 5V
ProtoDAC manual says that 2,4 - 5V

I am glad that you are enjoying ProtoDAC and Moode.

"Iancanada says 1,3 - 5V" To add to the confusing Ian Canada manual. There are five spring loaded GPIO contacts numbered 1, 3, 5, 10, 13. These connect to RPi GPIO pins 2, 4, 6, 9, 14 , respectively. 

I have used the PurePi with ProtoDAC. The RPi is designed to be mounted on the PurePi. The pins connect the 5V ultracap supply and ground to the RPi GPIO pins from the bottom. Yes, you can stack the Innomaker/ProtoDAC directly on the RPi. There is no need to use a stacking header in this case. 5VDC with pass through the GPIO to the Innomaker master DAC (reclocker in your case) and ProtoDAC.

The 3V LiFePO4 battery supply is unused in your setup.

The following does not pertain to your setup. Just for additional information.

The 3.3V LiFePO4 battery supply is designed to be used with the FifoPi Q7. The batteries power Q7 via the 3.3V terminal with a jumper wire. The isolated GPIO of Q7 has a nonstandard GPIO with only 3.3V on pins 2 and 4. This cannot be changed with Q7. In that case, there are two options with powering ProtoDAC mounted on the Q7:

1) Option 1: A stacking header with GPIO pins 2 and 4 removed is used. Power ProtoDAC using the GND/5V pads located between the RCA jacks. This is a reversible method, since ProtoDAC could be powered from the GPIO in another setup.

2) Option 2: Remove pins 2 and 4 from the ProtoDAC GPIO before soldering. In that case, ProtoDAC must always be powered from the GND/5V pads between the RCA jacks.

Thank you, @hifinet, much appreciate it. The more I am thinking about it the more PurePi is going to be a waste in my case as I am not ready to drop another $220 on Q7 and will not use his 3.3V rail. That said, I wonder if there is benefit in building a linear power supply for 5V for ProtoDAC? Iancanada sells LinearPi and combined with the transformer and some casing, will it be a better idea?

[hifinet]

Well, maybe you like the ultracap supply, maybe not. I personally didn't care for it. I used the two LiFePO4 batteries to make a 5V power supply. An LT1963 5V regulator module with the two batteries in series (6.8V). Then use the PurePi as a battery charger or a LiitoKala. 

Or you can use the LT1963 with an unregulated linear power supply (you can find these at thrift stores; it usually says Class 2 transformer with DC output). The LT1963 is an excellent regulator. It is an LDO and will work as a 5V supply with voltages over 5.4V . It does not have enough current for your RPi/Innomaker/ProtoDAC, but I wouldn't power the whole stack with a single supply.  This is not complicated. IC stuff is overpriced, IMHO.

Split the power from the Innomaker/ProtoDAC with the stacking header with pins 2 and 4 removed. Common ground. Power the RPi with PurePi, a SMPS or even spare power bank.

[eculcea]

After a lot of trials I finally figured out the IR remote for the PicoPlayer. This is a nice addition to the LCD screen for the PicoPlayer

You will need to get a Squezeebox IR remote(another remote could be JustBoom but is hard to find) . Then you connect an IR receiver TSOP4838 at pin 1, 6 and 22 of RPI GPIO. On the PicoPlayer under Tweaks you need to have the Jivelite installed and it might work just like this. If not then, under IR remote go for the IR remote for Jivelite and install the IR tools. Then it should work. Other remotes could work but you need to tweak the remote mapping file to the remote you have.

   

[thomaschan]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Rxz75QFQig

A FET output stage is added to the 1387 chip for improved performance. Better dynamic range and musicality with a warm touch.

Three power supplies for optimal performance. 4A for Pi 4, low noise 5V for1387 DAC chip, linear power supply for FET output. Internal shielding to minimize noise.

[hifinet]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Rxz75QFQig

A FET output stage is added to the 1387 chip for improved performance. Better dynamic range and musicality with a warm touch.

Three power supplies for optimal performance. 4A for Pi 4, low noise 5V for1387 DAC chip, linear power supply for FET output. Internal shielding to minimize noise.

Beautiful work. Active (like a Pass D1 w/o buffer) or passive I/V? Very inspiring.