04-09-2018, 08:05 PM
Hi Guys
Can we please try to include important stuff which as been learned in the DIYAudio forum,
Originally Posted by Runefrost
Hi Tim.
Thank you for your great music player.
I am a long time user of RuneAudio, and have always thought that it was the best player out there. But now after your 4.0 update, then yours have really impressed me alot!!
I have used some tweaks on my RuneAudio image, and I have tried some of them on yours
If you want, then you can try to use it on your testrig. I think that it improves the sound a bit.
i have added this in config.txt :
force_turbo=1
arm_freq=333
over_voltage=-7
core_freq=166
h264_freq=166
isp_freq=166
v3d_freq=166
gpu_freq=166
# sdram overclock
sdram_freq=166
sdram_schmoo=0x021e882c
over_voltage_sdram_p=5
over_voltage_sdram_i=3
over_voltage_sdram_c=-13
and this is added in cmdline.txt:
dwc_otg.microframe_schedule=0 dwc_otg.nak_holdoff_enable=1 dwc_otg.fiq_fix_enable=0 smsc95xx.turbo_mode=N dwc_otg.lpm_enable=0
I know that there are some drawbacks when underclocking as much as I have, and it is perhaps not necessary to underclock this much.. but it really sounds great
especially the ram "tweaks" in config.txt is adding some sound quality.
All in all, thanks for your great player. Hope you can use some of this in your future sound optimisations.
Kind regards,
Rune Frost
Rod here,
I've taken out the lines in the config.txt file and cmdline.txt file which have been recommended by Jesset (from diyaudio forum) as being unwanted.
I can report that the tweaked lines do make a difference in my system, which is...... hi-end (kinda near at the one end!)
Raspberry Pi 3 B+ (B model acts the same way=sound quality) /UPS PSU (on board Geekworm 3.7v Lithium=Ion battery, for me just sounds better) or Li-po battery 2500mh split supply to compare - this should be better but I'm not sure, maybe listening late at night....
/Avondale dual linear PSU always delivers but at a cost (remember quality power to these low power devices always counts)
/Allo DigiOne Spdif direct wired to Chord Mojo as preamp/Avondale T65 Monoblocks/Unkonwn prototype frameless loudspeakers (Transfi) prototypes. (there are no boards or cabinets supporting these - the loudspeakers float in air this is near the end... believe me) No cabinets, no colouration, but a hell of a headache on how to deal with the room......they are so transparent.
My background is http://www.standsunique.com. I used to make things in the UK Hi-Fi industry. Looking forward to trying the Allo Sparky/USBridge on MoOde, yes it works! (I have a friend of a friend who is gifted in linux, and MoOde is the way forward to great music enjoyment with the Mojo on USB input as this is supposed to help things along........ more playing.....
But the way SPDIF is seriously good out of the Pi3 B and B+ on the Allo DigiOne, I'm hearing the improvements on it every day from tweaking settings and this is a great product make no mistake. Just don't forget there is a clear chain with the Rpi3 B or B+ (both work great for audio) make sure you optimise the software - as Rune Frost has stated.
See the previous...
I always say, get yourself a decent power supply, linear or battery, power quality makes the difference, all the difference. I have tried (Li-Po) battery types as the best as used in drones etc. great current delivery. Tip: using a DROK DC-DC reducer will work well (Goo*le is you're friend) just do a search and you will be educated. Especially good if you have an old PSU which is the wrong output voltage. Use one of these boards with a LED readout or without a readout and use a meter to see the DC output and set manually for each requirement. Once you master this, power supplies will be less of a hassle, just tailor what you have to work for you.
Happy listening
Can we please try to include important stuff which as been learned in the DIYAudio forum,
Originally Posted by Runefrost
Hi Tim.
Thank you for your great music player.
I am a long time user of RuneAudio, and have always thought that it was the best player out there. But now after your 4.0 update, then yours have really impressed me alot!!
I have used some tweaks on my RuneAudio image, and I have tried some of them on yours
If you want, then you can try to use it on your testrig. I think that it improves the sound a bit.
i have added this in config.txt :
force_turbo=1
arm_freq=333
over_voltage=-7
core_freq=166
h264_freq=166
isp_freq=166
v3d_freq=166
gpu_freq=166
# sdram overclock
sdram_freq=166
sdram_schmoo=0x021e882c
over_voltage_sdram_p=5
over_voltage_sdram_i=3
over_voltage_sdram_c=-13
and this is added in cmdline.txt:
dwc_otg.microframe_schedule=0 dwc_otg.nak_holdoff_enable=1 dwc_otg.fiq_fix_enable=0 smsc95xx.turbo_mode=N dwc_otg.lpm_enable=0
I know that there are some drawbacks when underclocking as much as I have, and it is perhaps not necessary to underclock this much.. but it really sounds great
especially the ram "tweaks" in config.txt is adding some sound quality.
All in all, thanks for your great player. Hope you can use some of this in your future sound optimisations.
Kind regards,
Rune Frost
Rod here,
I've taken out the lines in the config.txt file and cmdline.txt file which have been recommended by Jesset (from diyaudio forum) as being unwanted.
I can report that the tweaked lines do make a difference in my system, which is...... hi-end (kinda near at the one end!)
Raspberry Pi 3 B+ (B model acts the same way=sound quality) /UPS PSU (on board Geekworm 3.7v Lithium=Ion battery, for me just sounds better) or Li-po battery 2500mh split supply to compare - this should be better but I'm not sure, maybe listening late at night....
/Avondale dual linear PSU always delivers but at a cost (remember quality power to these low power devices always counts)
/Allo DigiOne Spdif direct wired to Chord Mojo as preamp/Avondale T65 Monoblocks/Unkonwn prototype frameless loudspeakers (Transfi) prototypes. (there are no boards or cabinets supporting these - the loudspeakers float in air this is near the end... believe me) No cabinets, no colouration, but a hell of a headache on how to deal with the room......they are so transparent.
My background is http://www.standsunique.com. I used to make things in the UK Hi-Fi industry. Looking forward to trying the Allo Sparky/USBridge on MoOde, yes it works! (I have a friend of a friend who is gifted in linux, and MoOde is the way forward to great music enjoyment with the Mojo on USB input as this is supposed to help things along........ more playing.....
But the way SPDIF is seriously good out of the Pi3 B and B+ on the Allo DigiOne, I'm hearing the improvements on it every day from tweaking settings and this is a great product make no mistake. Just don't forget there is a clear chain with the Rpi3 B or B+ (both work great for audio) make sure you optimise the software - as Rune Frost has stated.
See the previous...
I always say, get yourself a decent power supply, linear or battery, power quality makes the difference, all the difference. I have tried (Li-Po) battery types as the best as used in drones etc. great current delivery. Tip: using a DROK DC-DC reducer will work well (Goo*le is you're friend) just do a search and you will be educated. Especially good if you have an old PSU which is the wrong output voltage. Use one of these boards with a LED readout or without a readout and use a meter to see the DC output and set manually for each requirement. Once you master this, power supplies will be less of a hassle, just tailor what you have to work for you.
Happy listening